Just to be clear, it’s not a significant drop, but when the temperature is a stable 22.5-23 for 3-4 hours at night, with a trend of the temperature moving upwards before we go to bed and outside it’s going from -7 to -4 during the night, I don’t expect the temperature to drop 1.5 degrees during the night when the setpoint is 23, waking up with 21 degrees today morning with a downwards trend and the pump not seeming to use more energy to give more heat. With the FH35 I had it set at 21 degrees, then it was 22 in the house with +/- 0.5 degrees as expected both night and day, it seemed it regulated itself better according to the indoor temperature. Setpoint had to be changed up or down when there was -5 and -10, other than that, pretty stable throughout the season. With HZ25 there are daily needs for temperature adjustments (up or down 1 degree to try to keep it stable).
I might expect too much.
I’m still working on perfecting the airflow, as I believe this also has a big impact on how the air moves in the house and needs to be fine tuned as I did with the mitsu. But it’s the panas temperature sensor that is the main culprit here, without my automation it makes it go to hot so the pump draws maximum power and stops for 10 minutes because it thinks it’s too hot, which just makes the house colder as it can’t seem to figure out that it needs to settle at 800-1000W to give enough heat.
House is from 2012, single floor, 186m2, well insulated, no fireplace, where maybe 140m2 is heated by the pump (again, FH35 had no issues since we took over in 2018, even at -22, but then we had to turn on two 800W ovens. Worked without any extra heat down to -15 ish).
Luulen että tuo toisinaan tapahtuva sulatushulluttelu ja liian pitkät sulatukset ovat oikeasti huono asia. Katkokäynti nyt ehkä enempi ärsyttävä eikä niin paljoa laske hyötysuhdetta. NZ kyseessä itsellä siis
Based on my analysis also you could use this method.